natural laboratory: test bathroom

Natural cleaners: they work. But what works best? I let my bathroom get super grimy and disgusting – all in the interest of science, of course – so I could spend the entire weekend testing a few non-toxic cleansers. Now, because we are all friends, and friends share things that are maybe a bit difficult to talk about, I’m going to share with you something that I have only spoken about with my mother. And because it is so horrifying, I had to combine it with the after photo just to prove that I have recovered.

That’s right, I let my bathtub get this awful. It was sort of a gradual decline, and like the proverbial frog in heating water, I didn’t notice just how awful it was until it was almost too late. So armed with my vinegar, baking soda, borax, and determination, I set out to win the battle this using only this natural arsenal.

Baking soda, kosher salt, and water

The claim: cleans tough stains from porcelain and tile. The reality: this worked pretty well. I tried this on half of my bathtub, shaking out a bit of baking soda on the wet porcelain, followed by salt and a damp rag. I put in a moderate amount of elbow grease, but I was still left with some semi-icky staining.

Borax and castile soap

I already use Borax in my laundry. The claim is that it helps soap and detergents work better, and this was pretty well proven on the other half of my bathtub. The same amount of elbow grease applied to borax and soap cleaned the surface much better than the baking soda, so I finished the job with this method.

Hot vinegar: more than a great band name

The claim: hot vinegar cleans soap scum from tile and chrome. The reality: truth. I used this on my faucets and my shower walls, and not only did it clean my kettle when I boiled it, but the vinegar rinsed away old soap and left everything feeling clean.

Tea tree oil (or not)

The claim: tea tree oil kills mildew. The reality: tea tree oil is prohibitively expensive. As in, over $20 for a tiny dropper bottle. So I decided that if I was going to spend any money on this endeavor, it would be to take off the mildewed caulk and replace it. So that’s what I did. Turns out replacing caulk is as simple as scraping it off and putting new stuff on.

And that’s it. Caulking is actually super easy; way easier than grouting. So what’s your favorite natural cleaner? Did you spring for the tea tree oil? Let me know how it goes.

replacing modern doorknobs

As a renter, there are three things that I try to replace immediately when I move into an apartment: the switch plate covers, the doorknobs, and the toilet seat. All three are super easy, and your local hardware store has pretty much everything you need. The toilet seat is self-explanatory, and the switch plate covers can range from fancy

Yes, I admit this is from anthropologie. On sale, though.

to porcelain you can find for $7 at the hardware store (which I actually prefer most of the time).

The doorknob is a little tricker if you want something special. Most apartments built after 1945 – mine included – have these standard-issue hollow, thin metal doorknobs that look and are cheap. To combat this, and to add a nice subtle quality detail, you have a few options. First, you can buy a new crystal doorknob at the hardware store and call it a day. You could also buy a new fancy doorknob at Anthropologie, or you can buy a fancy old one at an antique shop or flea market. It’s not that I condone buying things from Anthropologie, it’s just that sometimes their hardware is so beautiful that I can completely understand why one might do it (see switch plate above). So I can totally forgive myself the indiscretion of looking on their site at this amazingly beautiful black and white checkered doorknob (no longer available) and seeing that there was a sad little one star review at the bottom. Investigating further, it appeared that the sad reviewer had purchased the doorknob, only to realize she had one of those modern doors and that it didn’t fit. So she gave this particular doorknob one star, saying something along the lines of “this didn’t fit, you need special hardware and someone who knows what they are doing.” I’ll give you the special hardware bit, but girl, let me empower you to be that person.

The part on the left is the modern style, the one on the right; older.

I don’t know exactly when doorknobs went from square to whatever that shape is. I found the piece on the right attached to a plastic doorknob, probably from the 50′s, but they are much easier to come by at my local hardware store for about $6, and they come with the plate that goes on the door frame. Because your modern door probably has a round hole drilled through it to accommodate the modern doorknob, and your old/fancy new doorknob is just a little spindle with handles, you’ll also need something to cover that hole. These come in round or rectangular styles, the latter with a cute fake keyhole. I’m choosing round for no particular reason. So here is all the special hardware I need to replace my doorknob:

Not pictured but assumed: the screws that come with the door plate.

  • Rosettes or plate to cover the 2 1/4 inch hole that your current doorknob would leave
  • Doorknob with spindle
  • Part that goes in the door with a square hole (that there is probably a better name for)
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Door frame plate (included with doorknob conversion kit)

When choosing a doorknob – especially an antique – be aware that the spindle comes in a couple different forms, the screw type and the hole type (not the actual names, I assume).

Screw type:

Holey type:

If you can, choose a screw type, because it’s pretty much guaranteed to fit your door no matter which rosette or plate you choose. If you choose one of these holey types, you might have to flatten your rosette a bit to fit the width of your door. Okay, here we go!

First, take off the old knob:

You will also want to sand the bad paint job around the hole, and possibly repaint your entire door. It’s fun!

Then, put in the new hardware inside the door:

Replace the plate on the door frame:

And install the new doorknob:

Like I mentioned earlier, you might have to flatten the plates that cover the hole in the door if you get a spindle with holes – that’s what happened here, and I had to install a different rosette to make the antique knob fit. But the finished product is lovely, isn’t it? I found my doorknob at Liz’s Antique Harware on La Brea near 6th, which is usually way out of my budget. This hollow brass knob was only $24, which is arguably better than Anthropologie’s $32-$68 range (note that they also provide the rosette for the door).

plants aplenty

So, I have a small apartment, right? With no outdoor space, remember? From before? Okay. I am, however, blessed with a kitchen that gets a lot of light, and unsightly bars on my windows can support a flower box. So here are a few of the things I’ve been up to:

Much better with the construction this time.

Last weekend’s window box was such a success that I decided to keep it going and build two more. Since this window is low enough to water but too high to really pick anything out of it, I chose some geraniums and a climbing jasmine.

Here’s where things get a little cray. Tomatoes? Indoors, you say? Weird, but true. I planted one tomato outside, and this one inside, and guess which one is doing better? Yeah, inside. They’re both growing well, but the indoor kid is really taking off. I planted some arugula from seed just for fun, and also small pots of collards, cucumber, and basil. It’s been a week, and so far, so good: everyone is adjusting well and growing like they oughta. The only problem I’ve noticed so far is that my cat apparently likes to chew on collard leaves, so Sunday I’ll pick up some cat grass for him.

In other news, I’m not very good at making pots, but I enjoy the hell out of it.

This is the first piece I finished in my pottery class. It’s supposed to be herringbone. Sigh.

diy wood window boxes

If I’m going to write about something this week, it’s going to be renter’s improvements. There are a lot of great things about renting: if something breaks and it’s not your fault, you get it repaired for free (or you’re supposed to), you can move relatively quickly without waiting for a house to sell… actually, those might be it. The improvements you can often make to a rental are cheap, fast, and give you a relatively big return on your investment. This weekend I made this crudely-constructed-but-sort-of-cute thing:

As you can see, my building is a drab gray box with bars on the windows. I also have no outdoor space, so I’ve been thinking about building some container gardens for a while. To test the viability of this idea, I asked the nice folks at the local lumberyard to cut this board into pieces for me. It cost $2. Since the wood is so thin, I couldn’t really use wood screws, so I used to leftover combination of long nails and elbow brackets to unintentionally simulate what it would look like if a small child drew a picture of a window box (let’s just say my joints are not flush). Some holes drilled in the bottom, plus some hooks screwed into the windowsill and some eyes for to hook, and I had myself a ready bed for some zinnias.

I acquired said zinnias, along with some tomatoes and jasmine for future boxes, at this place on Fairfax called First Image Nursery, which I discovered by accident while getting my oil changed across the street. This place is huge, cheap, and super friendly. The people on yelp think so too.

a painting primer

This weekend I gave my bathroom a little facelift. It was the only room in my apartment I hadn’t done anything with yet, and it was way overdue. Not only was it not pretty, but it wasn’t that functional. Things didn’t always have a place to be stored, towels ended up on the floor, et cetera. This is not to say that the rooms I had addressed aren’t messy, it’s just that the bathroom is so small that when it is disorganized and messy, it’s a lot more irritating, especially when I spend so much time starting my day there.

Before:

Awful, right?

I snapped a couple quick after pics before I left for work this morning:

Same stuff, different color.

I need to add some blue in here to keep it from feeling too Halloweeny.

There are a lot of things to talk about here, like the Alana Bailey gig poster, the white metal cabinet I picked up for $25 at Long Beach, and how I installed a vintage doorknob on a modern door (instructions on that later). But what I want to address first is the paint job. Painting is really meditative for me because it requires so much focus, and the end result is so dramatic. I can also catch up on episodes of This American Life and radiolab. I love painting. I will paint any room in your house for a beer and a veggie burger. Anyway, I’ve painted a lot of rooms many times over, and over the last few years I’ve learned a few things that make the whole experience a lot more pleasant and successful.

painting tip #1: buying paint without looking at swatches in the room rarely delivers enviable results.

It’s kind of a pain in the ass to go to the paint store, find a few chips or sample pots you like, go home, look at them on your walls in different lights, go back to the store and order the paint. But it’s even more irritating to buy an entire gallon (or even a quart, for that matter) of something you think is going to be totally awesome that the next day makes you want to retch.

painting tip #2, in which I totally contradict myself: try the oops pile.

Sometimes you have to just go for it, but only when the paint is cheap. I do not condone buying cheap paint, just paying very little money for good-quality paint. This is accomplished by going to your local paint store and buying a gallon of accidental paint in an interesting but random color – who knows, you might score a brilliant find. Cheap paint, something that costs in the neighborhood of $20-30/gallon, probably will take more to cover and will leave a less desirable finish. Pay the extra $10 and at least get Benjamin Moore, my sort of entry-level good-quality paint. I always get the zero-VOC Natura line when I’m getting a custom color. Other great zero-VOC paints I’ve used include American Pride (a.k.a. Mythic) and YOLO colorhouse (be careful – this splatters but the finish is velvet lovely).

painting tip #3: tools matter.

Buy the best quality brushes you can afford and take care of them (Merit Pro, shown here, are relatively cheap and high quality). Rinse them out after use, and don’t soak them. Also, try a smaller roller, like this one. I love this smaller size because it’s easier to handle, can fit in tighter spaces (like behind the toilet), and uses less energy to wield.

The color is Soot by Benjamin Moore, found for $7 in the oops paint.

painting tip #4: use a dropcloth.

Or this can happen, even to the most seasoned veterans:

This really happened, and it really was an accident.

painting tip #5: prime over a shiny finish, but don’t bother over flat.

Part of why I think a lot of people find painting to be a chore is all the preparation work you have to do, like priming and taping. I find these to be largely unnecessary in most circumstances. If you paint over an umprimed semi-gloss or other somewhat shiny finish without priming, your color will take, but it will flake off whenever you try to hang a picture or hit it barely touch it with something hard and you’ll be constantly touching it up. I also find taping to be largely unnecessary, and find it much more useful to use a high-quality brush and learn to paint straight lines:

Okay, so this isn't totally straight, but I was trying to hold the camera with the other hand.

Obviously in very small areas or in places where there’s no room for mistakes, like between window panes, tape is better. I just have found that I tend to be careless and sloppy when I tape and it ends up looking worse than if I had just painted a straight line.

painting tip #6: trim does not have to be white.

When I first wrote this in 2009, I think it was a lot more novel as a design trend than it is now. Monochromatic trim is pretty common at this point, either in a different shade – lighter or darker – than the wall, or the same shade. Black trim with white walls is also killer, although be prepared to lose your deposit if you do this, no matter how cool it looks. True story.

who needs a printer?

I was going to assemble yard sale signs by printing Futura Bold in red over old maps, but I couldn’t get my printer to work (alright fine, I just don’t understand where the paper goes, ok?). So I thought, what would be the next hipsteriest thing to that? I looked around my apartment. Screen printing? Would take too long. My yard sale is in two hours. Black sharpie? Minimalist, but so banal. Then I realized that I could just cut up a cardboard box, paint it with chalkboard paint, and write on it with white chalk:

It took me about 15 minutes to do four. Thanks to everyone who came over!

more diy cat junk

You know what makes these great? Oilcloth. I mean, there’s real oilcloth, and then there’s the bright Mexican vinyl-coated fabric-like product known today as oilcloth, comme çi:

I bought this at the hardware store for a few dollars a yard. I should really keep better track of how much things cost for when I write about them.

Real oilcloth is pretty much what it sounds like: fabric that’s been brushed on one side with linseed oil, which, if you do it right (let it dry thoroughly and don’t put too much on) will not spontaneously combust and will be sort of laminated like. You can make it, and it’s a hell of a lot more environmentally friendly than what I’m about to use here, but for my purposes, you can’t beat the not real thing.

I’m not the first person to suggest oilcloth or laminated cotton as a craft material; Martha has been doing it for years because the patterns are so darn cute. Oilcloth is basically a really pretty nonstick surface that makes it perfect to line a cat litter box, since most of us who have cats are girls that like pretty things.

I just stapled the liner all the way around and filled it up with litter (I’m testing out a biodegradable cellulose situation right now). It cleans easily – that’s kind of the point of its existence – and after a few weeks of normal cleaning, when its time has come I just rip it out and staple more down. At first, I also glued it to the bottom, which turned out to be unnecessary and annoying to replace. I also realized after a few months that the best way to keep the wood box clean was to just go ahead and take the lazy way out and staple it around the top in a completely haphazard fashion, which isn’t quite as pretty, but a lot easier to keep clean.

diy cat things

I like cats. I like saving money. I also like making things. And while I really appreciate companies that are trying to make Dwell-worthy litter boxes and rustic salvaged wood scratching posts, sometimes the better solution is to make something cheap by hand. First, the scratching post:

I took Okay fine, Jake took a simple wooden fence post for about $7 and attached it to a square piece of plywood, about $3. I then painted it. Now, I paint often, so I have an entire cabinet in my kitchen that is dedicated exclusively to paint. Possibly two of them. But if you’re a normal person who doesn’t wake up at least one Saturday every month and think “I’m going to repaint this room today,” then here are some tips for acquiring cheap paint. First, the obvious. Don’t go to a big box hardware store. Like, ever. Now I understand, independent hardware stores don’t exist everywhere anymore. But they’re worth seeking out. It’s in your best interest to befriend someone at your local hardware store and paint store because not only might they cut you a deal someday if they can, but I guarantee you they’ll answer your questions, find the parts you need, all while giving a shit. Or maybe that’s just because I’m a semi-cute girl; I don’t know. I do know that the likelihood of getting personal, shit-givey attention at most mega-chain hardware stores is pretty slim, especially at the paint section.

Anyway. Let’s say you find yourself a good independent paint store (in LA, I recommend Naylor in Venice or Mann on La Brea). Now, you can always buy those little samples in select colors for about $2.50 (I’m thinking Benjamin Moore) and that should be enough for projects like this. But if you want a color that isn’t so readily represented, you can get a sample pint mixed in just about any color for a few dollars more. And if you’re really cheap, the best resource for paint is the reject pile. Every paint store has an oops! section where the wrong color was mixed, or the buyer didn’t pick it up, or whatever. You can get gallons for $10 and quarts for $3 or $4 or less. I like to hang on to my samples and keep them handy for crafts:

Adorable sample pots run about $2-3.

So you get your tiny can of paint and your wood, and you assemble same, and then for the scratching part. I bought a spool of hemp or sisal twine (I don’t remember which) for a few bucks and then proceeded to tie it around the post, winding it around and tied it at the top. I did this several months ago, and it’s still going strong, although the twine is cheap and can be replaced often if you think it’s getting messy. And to avoid having an awkward stump at the top, I used u-shaped nails to attach a vintage wire basket on top with a drippy plant. So, does it actually get used?

Yes. Yes it does.

Next up: a DIY litter box that’s actually cute.