barbecue kitsch
Tuesday, June 1st, 2010This weekend marked the start of the much-anticipated barbecue season. Even though I eschew meat (and cheese and deviled eggs, for that matter) I thoroughly enjoy the whole backyard barbecue scene, what with its guava drinks and tiki torches and sunburns. Though the barbecue is not an exclusively American activity, the suburban splendor of the American backyard barbecue has a uniquely kitschy and life-affirming quality that has been enjoyed since at least the invention of the suburb.
I’m pretty sure the backyard barbecue became so popular in the postwar era because with the general shift from urban areas to single family housing outside of the city centers (thanks to a dramatic increase in housing demand and government subsidies aimed specifically at single family housing, automobiles, and freeways) came the notion that the good life was the private life. Instead of the porch out front and the garage out back, people retreated into their backyards, leaving the carport and front lawn as a barrier to the rest of the world. Perhaps it was the recent trauma of depression and war; actually, the right to privacy was one of the rights/freedoms many felt the war was about, and an escape from crowded urban living signaled the arrival of prosperity. A 1950 House Beautiful article by Joseph Howard entitled “The Good Life is NOT the Public Life” went so far as to say that “if your neighbors can observe what you are serving on your terrace, your home is not really your castle. If you can’t walk out in a negligee, to pick a flower before breakfast without being seen from the street or by the neighbors, you have not fully developed the possibilities of good living.”1
If this is the case, why go to a public park that provides access to playgrounds, patios, and barbecue grills, when you can keep all that for yourself in your own backyard, and not have to share it with anyone?
I’m sorry, did I say I enjoyed the backyard barbecue? I meant it. I’m being a little snarky here because I fundamentally disagree with many of the values upon which the suburban backyard is built, and I actually lived in a postwar house with a backyard and felt suffocated and anxious. But for some reason I still hold in high esteem the graphic history and the enormously fun present of outdoor entertaining.
And just to show that not everything barbecue-related was red, behold the simple white divided plate:
Also, I really hope Joseph Howard picked flowers in his negligee.
1Treib, Mark. The Architecture of Landscape, 1940-1960. See also Landscape and Race in the United States by Richard H. Schein.



































































